Ancient Treasures and Modern Mastery at The Ledbury in London

Even London's fabled November chill couldn't dampen the excitement my wife Dio and I felt as we stepped into the first of three different three-Michelin-star restaurants we’d sample during our time in the capital city. After a memorable evening the night before at 67 Pall Mall (which you can read about here), Dio and I were more than ready for what we’d ultimately come to regard as the crown jewel of our 10th anniversary celebration: dinner at The Ledbury.

But that Tuesday morning didn't begin with expectations of fine dining at the forefront of our minds. Rather, we woke to something that made this Atlanta, Ga. couple do a bona fide double-take.

Snow in London!

Coming from a deep Southern city where even a modicum of snowfall is a rare enough occurrence to result in blown minds and marked calendars, we couldn't resist documenting the unexpected winter wonderland we witnessed outside our Marylebone flat. After bundling up and admiring the white-dusted streets, we set off for a day of exploration that would serve as the perfect stage for our evening’s celebration.

The morning began with a round of leisurely window shopping along London's stylish streets, where we meandered past refined boutiques and marveled at their elaborate holiday displays.

Then we allowed ourselves to indulge in some serious watch shopping before embarking on what has become one of my favorite travel traditions: wine treasure hunting. Our destination this time around was Hedonism Wines, and as a devoted wine blogger, stepping into their Mayfair location felt like entering a cathedral built for serious collectors.

This affinity for “treasure hunting” stems from my ongoing mission to taste wines originating from every château in Robert Parker's modern reclassification of Bordeaux properties. Since many of these bottles simply can't be found in the U.S., this is a quest that has led me to wine shops across the globe. You can read about a similar treasure hunt during our Bordeaux trip here.

At Hedonism, I managed to find two more elusive wines that were still on my bucket list: 2012 Château Balestard La Tonnelle St. Émilion Grand Cru and 2010 Château La Croix St. Georges Pomerol. Please believe me when I say that finding these châteaux outside their home region always feels a bit like discovering a long-hidden stash of buried gold or gems.

By the middle of the afternoon, Dio and I agreed that we were both in need of sustenance, so we headed to Fischer's, a Viennese restaurant that we'd heard served the same Käsekrainer sausage that had become something of an obsession for us during our stop in Vienna a few years back (which you can read about here).

We'd tried this particular cheese-filled sausage from various street vendors throughout Vienna, and fallen in love with it. However, since you simply can’t find authentic Käsekrainer anywhere in Atlanta, learning that Fischer's offered the genuine article made it an absolute must-visit during our stay in London. While there, I also sampled the 2022 Zantho Zweigelt Burgenland, a Viennese red wine which I scored 89 points based on it’s surprisingly light bodied pinot noir characteristics.

At this point, I believe I’ve determined that Austrian reds really aren't my preference. From now on, I'll stick to the exceptional whites from the region like Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings!

From there, it was on to something of a cultural interlude: the magnificent Victoria and Albert Museum, where we wandered through galleries filled with centuries of cherished works of art and exceedingly rare and historic crafts. Our first visit to the V&A provided the perfect contemplative pause before our upcoming evening of culinary artistry.

THE RESTAURANT THAT DREW US ACROSS AN OCEAN

Dining at The Ledbury wasn't a random choice by any means. This Notting Hill institution represents something extraordinary in London's dining landscape — a beloved restaurant that has weathered storms, both literally and figuratively, to emerge stronger than ever before.

When Australian-born chef Brett Graham joined The Ledbury in 2005, he was just 26 years old and filled with ambitious dreams. By that point, he’d already made his mark, moving to London from Sydney after winning the fabled Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year Award. His vision? To showcase seasonal British ingredients through classic French cooking techniques imbued with the subtle influence of Japanese cuisine.

The restaurant's journey to a Michelin-rated property reads like the tale of the Phoenix. It first earned two Michelin stars in 2010, and held those until 2021 when COVID-19 forced the restaurant (like so many others) to close. After nearly being shuttered for nearly two years straight, The Ledbury reopened in February 2022 with a completely renovated dining room. The Michelin Guide recognized and rewarded this renaissance, returning both its stars in 2023 and later elevating the restaurant to coveted three-star status in 2024.

It isn't just Graham's exceptional relationship with his suppliers that sets The Ledbury apart from other London fine dining establishments (though his estate-raised deer and in-house Fungarium do create unique possibilities). Instead, it’s the restaurant's impressive ability to maintain genuine warmth despite its elite status. Unlike many three-star establishments that feel stilted or intimidatingly formal, The Ledbury somehow cultivates what one critic praised as a "refreshingly approachable atmosphere."

Graham himself was deeply involved in the restaurant’s redesign, and personally selected every decorative element used in its overhaul. His passion for collecting fossils, stones, and historical artifacts has helped to transform the space into something resembling a cross between an upscale eatery and a sophisticated natural history museum.

This unusual combination of culinary excellence and approachable hospitality made The Ledbury perfect for our celebration. We didn’t feel as though we were booking a table; we felt we were securing seats at one of the world's most thoughtfully crafted dining experiences.

WHEN YOU WISH UPON THREE STARS

Early that evening, we grabbed an Uber for the drive through London's streets, arriving at the warmly lit corner building just as dusk painted the sky in soft purples and grays. The Ledbury's exterior maintains an understated sense of elegance that only hints at the multitude of delights awaiting its clientele.

Once seated in the intimately lit dining room, we discovered a thoughtful surprise waiting for us on our table: a "Happy 10th Anniversary" card personally signed by Chef Graham. Such care and attention to detail immediately set the tone for what would soon prove to be an unforgettable evening.

The dining room itself deserves special mention, as Graham's personal touch was evident everywhere throughout — from the carefully curated fossils that adorned window sills to the warm lighting that made every table feel like it was the most important in the room. Banquette seating along the walls created cozy, romantic nooks, while the central service station allowed staff to move efficiently between tables. The space felt both grand and (genuinely) welcoming at the very same time.

As soon as our server arrived and presented us with the evening's menu, we both knew we were in for something very special. The tasting menu format clearly showcased Graham's well-known philosophy of showcasing exceptional ingredients at their seasonal peaks.

The decision of what wine to order came quickly once I spotted the "Prestige Wine Flight" option listed alongside the standard pairing. Recognizing several exceptional producers while finding myself intrigued by unfamiliar names, I immediately opted for the prestige selection.

After confirming our dietary requirements — Dio's gluten sensitivity and my seafood allergy — our evening officially began. This would immediately set the tone for everything that followed.

THE CULINARY ADVENTURE BEGINS

Our welcome glass arrived first: NV Leclerc Briant Champagne Brut Réserve which I scored 93 points. This wasn't your typical restaurant greeting by any means. The sommelier explained that this unique Champagne represents natural techniques of winemaking so radical they appear to border on mystical. The blend of 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40% Meunier came from Rilly la Montagne. But what made it extraordinary was the winemaker's approach: he aged one of his cuvées 15 months underwater, 60 meters beneath the Atlantic Ocean, utilizing ocean currents and movements. He even filtered with moonlight — and while I'm still not sure what that even means, it sounded quite inspiring! The Ledbury is one of the few UK restaurants serving this producer, which made our welcome feel that much more special.

Poured from magnum, the Champagne showed light and refreshing character with medium weight and bright green apple notes. After several days of noteworthy London wine experiences, these were easily the best bubbles we'd encountered.

The canapés that accompanied our Champagne demonstrated The Ledbury's attention to sourcing and presentation. The first featured a chestnut biscuit topped with smoked duck, followed by charcuterie from Iberian pigs brought over during lockdown — both salami and leg preparations. A delicate potato puff with chives provided textural contrast.

The final canapé proved most memorable: a saffron pancake topped with venison pâté and deer tongue. This unusual combination showcased Graham's fearless approach to using every part of his estate-raised animals.

Royal Oak Swede arrived as our first official course, featuring nashi pear, Miyagawa, jalapeño, and rose. The presentation emphasized the swede's natural sweetness while the citrus and rose garnish added aromatic complexity.

View this dish in the following video.

The 2021 Prager Grüner Veltliner Stockkultur Smaragd Ried Achleiten pairing deserved special recognition. It earned 93 points in my notes. This wine comes from a vineyard positioned directly beside the Danube River. It represented quite possibly the weightiest Grüner Veltliner expression I've ever encountered. Almost syrupy in texture with muted nose and resolved tannins, it avoided the petrol characteristics that sometimes overwhelm this variety. The distinctive bitter character that defines quality Grüner Veltliner worked brilliantly with this dish's sweet elements.

Duck Liver followed, featuring Crapaudine beetroot, cobnut, rosehip, and black sesame. The presentation resembled an edible garden, with beets baked in hay and candied with Kentish cobnuts. In accommodating my seafood allergy, they substituted hand-dived scallop with an additional duck liver parfait, creating a "snow" of mousse that melted beautifully on the palate.

Check it out in the video below.

The 2022 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, which I scored 92 points, brought personal excitement. Upon seeing the label, I couldn't help expressing my enthusiasm — Joh. Jos. Prüm is one of my favorite German producers. This single vineyard Riesling from Wehlener Sonnenuhr in the Mosel showcased textbook Kabinett characteristics: balanced residual sugar, bright acidity, and those distinctive notes of sweet lime and green apple. The wine's perfectly balanced sweetness and high acidity cut through this dish's richness while simultaneously complementing its earthy beet flavors.

A bread course arrived next, featuring a sourdough based on a blend of rye and heritage grains alongside brioche stuffed with Roscoff onion and glazed in black honey. The goat's butter, sprayed with molasses, provided rich accompaniment.

Just take a gander below at how beautiful this presentation is. It’s no wonder that esteemed food critics have named the Ledbury Best Restaurant in all of the UK on more than one occasion.

The 2021 Sadie Family Palladius accompanied the Royale Vendée Quail course. I gave this South African wine 92 points. This wine from Eben Sadie, one of the country's most iconic producers, represents a field blend of multiple varietals including Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Sémillon, and Sémillon Gris from old bush vines in Swartland.

Served via Coravin, the wine showed notable textural concentration designed to withstand the harsh South African heat. The quail preparation with Kentish quince, liquorice, parsnip, and Costa Rican vanilla created beautiful harmony with the wine's ripe fruit characteristics.

The sommelier's introduction to our next wine provided us with a fascinating education on France's Jura region. 2018 François Rousset-Martin Savagnin Côtes du Jura Oxy "more" Voile, which earned 90 points in my tasting notes, represents the oxidative winemaking style that makes Jura unique. The wine, matured with the help of flor yeast, develops the sort of intense, nutty aromas one might reasonably associate with the production of sherry. While not my preferred style, I would be remiss if I did not concede that it created an excellent pairing with the Hen's Egg Yolk course featuring black trompette, sweetcorn, Roscoff onion, and autumn Wiltshire truffle.

Sometimes, the inclusion (or juxtaposition) of two or more disparate flavor profiles results in a nexus of tastes that allow enjoyment of a wine one might otherwise not have much use for. Such is the beguiling mystery of viniculture that keeps folks like myself coming back for more of these inexplicable moments!

Our fifth course marked a highlight of the night: “Mushrooms from the Cabinet,” one of The Ledbury’s signature dishes. We also made a trek downstairs to see the restaurant’s famous Fungarium, where they grow their own mushrooms on-site. “The Cabinet” contains multiple varieties of these mushrooms, all at different growing stages, creating a living laboratory that regularly supplies the kitchen with the freshest possible fungi.

Observe below our shots of the wide range of mushrooms being cultivated right there.

The 2009 Domaine Heresztyn/Heresztyn-Mazzini Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes we had next proved to be the wine of the night. Rating 94 points for me, this single vineyard premier cru demonstrated how Burgundy develops beautiful savory characteristics via bottle age. Served via Coravin, the wine showed a lovely, typical Burgundy nose abetted with soft, resolved tannins. The earthy complexity perfectly complemented the glazed and barbecued shiitake served with watercress cream and potato-yeast ravioli.

Then it was time for the main course, which featured Wareham Japanese Sika Deer — animals raised on Graham's own estate. The beautiful presentation included deer ham, consommé with ginger, tartare, ribs, and a sauce incorporating bone marrow and pureed artichoke, alongside celeriac purée and preserved figs.

Our conversation about Bordeaux during wine service proved prescient when the 2010 Château Langoa Barton arrived. We had visited this very château the previous year, tasting their 2022 barrel samples during our Bordeaux week (which you can read about here). What a fortuitous coincidence! This Left Bank St-Julien Troisième Cru Classé, poured from magnum via Coravin, showed beautiful primary black fruit character while developing secondary notes of green bell pepper and graphite. The wine paired excellently with the rich, savory deer preparation, and I wound up scoring it at 93 points.

MASTER CHEF AND EXPERT STORYTELLER

The first dessert we were served, Meyer Lemon with Aynhoe Park honey, fennel, stem ginger, and long pepper, arrived without its own wine pairing. The composition featured lemon curd beneath lightly grilled meringue made from honey produced by The Ledbury's own bees (!). Limoncello mascarpone and various meringue preparations completed this extremely refreshing intermezzo.

Here’s a short video of this dish.

It was at that point that our final wine of the evening arrived: 2008 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Eiswein, which earned 91 points in my notes despite being a bit too sweet for my personal preference. This rare German ice wine from the Saar region represented something quite special, as Eiswein doesn't come often in Germany and Austria. The wine's orange peel character, citrus, and honey notes wound up providing the appropriate amount of sweetness to properly accompany our remaining dessert courses.

In retrospect, our most memorable moment of this phenomenal dining experience came when Brett Graham himself presented the second dessert: Kentish Cox Apple with Pompona vanilla, bergamot, lemon verbena, and brown butter. More than the dessert itself, Graham's extended conversation at our table revealed the undeniable passion that lies squarely behind The Ledbury's success.

When Dio inquired about the restaurant's design philosophy, I saw Graham's eyes light up. He explained to us how he’d arrived at The Ledbury at the tender age of just 26 years old. According to Graham, he had no input whatsoever in the restaurant’s original design. As a result, the heavy curtains and oversized chairs that had been chosen by others unfortunately created an atmosphere that simply didn't reflect his own personal vision.

In fact, one could say the visual elements of the earlier incarnation of The Ledbury were in opposition to the restaurant’s culinary aspects.

While he gradually changed out things like the tableware and modified small details over time —his wife makes many of the plates herself, for example— there was no way he could fundamentally alter the space until the COVID pandemic forced the restaurant to close for an extended time.

While initially appearing to be disastrous, that lengthy period of downtime eventually revealed itself as a golden opportunity for The Ledbury to be almost completely re-imagined and renovated.

In an effort to more closely align the feel and mood of the space with the food and drink being served there, Graham brought in designers he wouldn't normally have used, personally selected every paint color, and filled the space with his personal collection of fossils, stones, and historical artifacts.

He showed us a fern fossil, nearly 311 million years old (?!), purchased for just £50-60 from someone who carefully chipped it out from surrounding rock. In doing so, Graham explained his personal philosophy: He’d rather buy and showcase something with such incredible history than yet another candle.

Which only makes sense, right? And yet its seemingly a foreign concept to the vast majority of restaurateurs…

Graham's passion for collecting has transformed The Ledbury into something far more personal than even the most lovely establishments. Every decorative element in the space seemed to have an interesting story of some sort behind it.

Between the plaster fragment from an old French church and the various numbered fossils, it really did feel as though one was dining in a legitimate museum of natural history. Even the bathroom featured pieces from his fossil collection displayed around the mirror.

Dio and I savored both the Eiswein and apple dessert as Graham continued to share stories about his collection and his dreams for the restaurant. After we finished, he then returned to present our final course.

The final dessert of the night featured caramelized white chocolate, which he served with a healthy portion of playful banter about potential gluten contamination. This led us all to a much more serious discussion about his notable approach to dietary restrictions.

Graham is nothing if not extremely practical, and that straightforward, no-frills philosophy was in full evidence as he explained how his somewhat controversial decision to no longer accommodate guests with severe allergies was rooted purely out of concerns for their safety. To hear Graham tell it, if someone could legitimately die from some sort of minor food contamination, there’s no meal in the world that could ever be worth such a risk.

According to the chef, every supplier he and other restaurant owners use to source their ingredients actively disclaims any responsibility for cross-contamination in their products. That leaves the restaurateurs solely liable for small but fatal mistakes that could, very conceivably, not have been made by anyone on their staff or even on their premises.

Graham’s down-to-earth and unpretentious personality shone through even during a serious discussion about food safety. As he bluntly put it, “If there’s no upside in killing someone, why take the chance?”

It was refreshing to hear someone be so forthright and matter-of-fact about how their own belief system informs the way they run their business.

Then again, when your business is one of the most celebrated, in-demand destination restaurants in England, I suppose that success and acclaim affords you the freedom to stick with your convictions rather than march to the beat of anyone else’s drum!

Following our discussion, this wondrous culinary experience continued, with a round of traditional (yet expertly made) petite fours, accompanied by coffee service.

Sometimes simple, old-fashioned elegance is the perfect way to cap off a stunning meal — even at a place known for bold, idiosyncratic approaches to modern cuisine…

By then we knew our time at The Ledbury had come to a close, and I suppose so did our Uber driver, who was waiting for us!

Our server was kind enough to help us in preserving this memory for posterity by taking our photo just before personally escorting us to the car. We all grabbed one final picture together outside the entrance to the restaurant, and then Dio and I sped off into the London night, our minds filled with a myriad of reflections on our time together (and the amazing meal we’d just enjoyed!).

A REMARKABLY HIGH STANDARD TO MATCH

Our 10th anniversary dinner at The Ledbury exceeded every expectation we may have had. The combination of exceptional cuisine, thoughtful wine pairings, and genuine hospitality created an evening we'll treasure forever. Brett Graham's personal attention towards us and the entire team's commitment to all-around excellence clearly and completely justify The Ledbury's three-Michelin-star status.

This meal represented just the first stop in our London three-star tour! The next day we checked out of our Marylebone flat, collected a rental car, and drove to our next destination: The Waterside Inn. That was followed by a stay out in the countryside at Cliveden House. Thursday brought us to our final three-star experience at The Fat Duck in Bray.

The Ledbury set a remarkably high standard for what was to come. But if our anniversary celebration proved anything, it's that some experiences are worth crossing oceans to enjoy.

Stay tuned for those upcoming blog posts — this three-star journey through England has just begun!