Ancient Treasures and Modern Mastery at The Ledbury in London

London's November chill couldn't dampen the excitement my wife Dio and I felt stepping into our first three-Michelin-star restaurant in the capital. After a memorable evening at 67 Pall Mall the night before (which you can read about here), Dio and I were ready for what would become the crown jewel of our 10th anniversary celebration: dinner at The Ledbury.

But our Tuesday didn't begin with fine dining expectations. Instead, we woke to something that made this Atlanta, GA couple do a double-take.

Snow in London! Coming from Atlanta, we couldn't resist documenting this unexpected winter wonderland outside our Marylebone flat. After bundling up and admiring the white-dusted streets, we set off for a day of exploration that would perfectly set the stage for our evening celebration.

Our morning began with leisurely window shopping along London's elegant streets, where we meandered past boutiques and marveled at the holiday displays.

Then we indulged in some serious watch shopping before embarking on what has become one of my favorite travel traditions: wine treasure hunting. Our destination was Hedonism Wines, and as a wine blogger, stepping into their Mayfair location feels like entering a cathedral built for serious collectors.

This treasure hunting stems from my ongoing mission to taste wines from every château in Robert Parker's modern reclassification of Bordeaux properties - a quest that has taken me to wine shops across the globe since many of these bottles simply can't be found in the U.S. You can read about a similar treasure hunt during our Bordeaux trip here.

At Hedonism, I managed to find two more elusive wines from my bucket list: 2012 Château Balestard La Tonnelle St. Émilion Grand Cru and 2010 Château La Croix St. Georges Pomerol. Finding these châteaux outside their home region always feels like discovering buried treasure.

Mid-afternoon called for sustenance, so we headed to Fischer's, a Viennese restaurant we'd discovered serves the same Käsekrainer sausage that had become our obsession during our stop in Vienna a few years ago. We'd fallen in love with this particular cheese-filled sausage from various street vendors throughout Vienna, but since you simply can't find authentic Käsekrainer in Atlanta, learning that Fischer's offered the genuine article made it an absolute must-visit during our London stay. I also sampled a Viennese red wine - 2022 Zantho Zweigelt Burgenland which I scored 89 points based on it’s surprisingly light bodied pinot noir characteristics - determining perhaps Austrian reds really aren't my preference. I'll stick to the exceptional whites from the region like Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings!

Our cultural interlude came at the magnificent Victoria and Albert Museum, where we wandered through galleries filled with centuries of artistic treasures. Our first visit to the V&A provided the perfect contemplative pause before our evening of culinary artistry.

THE RESTAURANT THAT DREW US ACROSS AN OCEAN

The Ledbury wasn't a random choice. This Notting Hill institution represents something extraordinary in London's dining landscape - a restaurant that has weathered storms, literally and figuratively, to emerge stronger than ever.

When Brett Graham joined The Ledbury in 2005, he was just 26 years old with ambitious dreams. The Australian-born chef had already made his mark, moving to London after winning the Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year Award in Sydney. His vision was to showcase seasonal British ingredients through French techniques with subtle Japanese influences.

The restaurant's Michelin journey reads like a phoenix story. It earned two Michelin stars in 2010, which it held until 2021 when COVID-19 forced its closure. After nearly two years shuttered, The Ledbury reopened in February 2022 with a completely renovated dining room. The Michelin Guide recognized this renaissance, returning both stars in 2023 and elevating the restaurant to three-star status in 2024.

What sets The Ledbury apart isn't just Graham's exceptional relationship with suppliers - though his estate-raised deer and in-house Fungarium create unique possibilities. It's the restaurant's ability to maintain genuine warmth despite its elite status. Unlike many three-star establishments that feel intimidatingly formal, The Ledbury cultivates what critics praise as a "refreshingly approachable atmosphere."

Graham was deeply involved in the redesign, personally selecting every decorative element. His passion for collecting fossils, stones, and historical artifacts transforms the space into something resembling a sophisticated natural history museum.

This combination of culinary excellence and approachable hospitality made The Ledbury perfect for our celebration. We weren't just booking a table; we were securing seats at one of the world's most thoughtfully crafted dining experiences.

STEPPING INTO THREE-STAR TERRITORY

We took an Uber through London's early evening streets, arriving at the corner building just as dusk painted the sky in soft purples and grays. The Ledbury's exterior maintains an understated elegance that only hints at the treasures within.

Once seated in the intimately lit dining room, we discovered a thoughtful surprise waiting on our table: a "Happy 10th Anniversary" card personally signed by Brett Graham. Such attention to detail immediately set the tone for what would be an unforgettable evening.

The dining room itself deserves special mention. Graham's personal touch is evident everywhere - from the carefully curated fossils adorning window sills to the warm lighting that makes every table feel like the most important in the room. Banquette seating along the walls creates intimate nooks, while the central service station allows staff to move efficiently between tables. The space feels both grand and genuinely welcoming.

When our server presented the evening's menu, we knew we were in for something special. The tasting menu format showcased Graham's philosophy of highlighting exceptional ingredients at their seasonal peak.

The wine decision came quickly when I spotted the "Prestige Wine Flight" option alongside the standard pairing. Recognizing several exceptional producers and intrigued by unfamiliar names, I immediately opted for the prestige selection.

After confirming our dietary requirements - Dio's gluten sensitivity and my seafood allergy - the evening officially began with a welcome that would set the tone for everything that followed.

THE CULINARY JOURNEY UNFOLD

Our welcome glass arrived first: NV Leclerc Briant Champagne Brut Réserve which I scored 93 points. This wasn't your typical restaurant greeting. The sommelier explained that this unique Champagne represents winemaker natural techniques so radical they border on mystical. The blend of 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40% Meunier comes from Rilly la Montagne, but what makes it extraordinary is the winemaker's approach: he ages one of his cuvées 15 months underwater, 60 meters beneath the Atlantic Ocean, utilizing ocean currents and movements. He even filters with moonlight - I'm not even sure what that actually means but it sounds quite inspiring! The Ledbury is one of the few UK restaurants serving this producer, making our welcome genuinely special.

Poured from magnum, the Champagne showed light and refreshing character with medium weight and bright green apple notes. After several days of London wine experiences, this was easily the best bubbles we'd encountered.

The canapés that accompanied our Champagne demonstrated The Ledbury's attention to sourcing and presentation. The first featured a chestnut biscuit topped with smoked duck, followed by charcuterie from Iberian pigs brought over during lockdown - both salami and leg preparations. A delicate potato puff with chives provided textural contrast.

The final canapé proved most memorable: a saffron pancake topped with venison pâté and deer tongue. This unusual combination showcased Graham's fearless approach to using every part of his estate-raised animals.

Royal Oak Swede arrived as our first official course, featuring nashi pear, Miyagawa, jalapeño, and rose. The presentation emphasized the swede's natural sweetness while the citrus and rose garnish added aromatic complexity.

The 2021 Prager Grüner Veltliner Stockkultur Smaragd Ried Achleiten pairing deserves special recognition. Earning 93 points in my notes, this wine comes from a vineyard positioned directly beside the Danube River. This represents quite possibly the weightiest Grüner Veltliner expression I've ever encountered. Almost syrupy in texture with muted nose and resolved tannins, it avoided the petrol characteristics that sometimes overwhelm this variety. The distinctive bitter character that defines quality Grüner Veltliner worked brilliantly with the dish's sweet elements.

Duck Liver followed, featuring Crapaudine beetroot, cobnut, rosehip, and black sesame. The presentation resembled an edible garden, with beets baked in hay and candied with Kentish cobnuts. For my seafood allergy accommodation, they substituted hand-dived scallop with additional duck liver parfait, creating a "snow" of mousse that melted beautifully on the palate.

The 2022 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett , scoring 92 points for me, brought personal excitement. Upon seeing the label, I couldn't help expressing my enthusiasm - Joh. Jos. Prüm represents one of my favorite German producers. This single vineyard Riesling from Wehlener Sonnenuhr in the Mosel showcased textbook Kabinett characteristics: balanced residual sugar, bright acidity, and those distinctive sweet lime and green apple notes. The wine's perfectly balanced sweetness and high acidity cut through the dish's richness while complementing the earthy beet flavors.

A bread course arrived next, featuring sourdough based on rye and heritage grains alongside brioche stuffed with Roscoff onion and glazed in black honey. The goat's butter, sprayed with molasses, provided rich accompaniment.

The 2021 Sadie Family Palladius accompanied the Royale Vendée Quail course. I gave this South African wine 92 points as it represents a field blend from one of the country's most iconic producers. This wine from Eben Sadie, one of the country's most iconic producers, represents a field blend of multiple varietals including Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Sémillon, and Sémillon Gris from old bush vines in Swartland. Served via Coravin, the wine showed notable textural concentration designed to withstand South African heat. The quail preparation with Kentish quince, liquorice, parsnip, and Costa Rican vanilla created beautiful harmony with the wine's ripe fruit characteristics.

The sommelier's introduction to our next wine provided fascinating education about France's Jura region. 2018 François Rousset-Martin Savagnin Côtes du Jura Oxy "more" Voile, which earned 90 points in my tasting notes, represents the oxidative winemaking style that makes Jura unique. The wine, matured under flor with yeast, develops intense nutty aromas reminiscent of sherry production. While not my preferred style, it created excellent pairing with the Hen's Egg Yolk course featuring black trompette, sweetcorn, Roscoff onion, and autumn Wiltshire truffle.

Our fifth course marked a highlight: Mushrooms from the Cabinet. We also went downstairs to see The Ledbury's famous Fungarium, where they grow their own mushrooms on-site. The cabinet contains multiple varieties at different growing stages, creating a living laboratory that supplies the kitchen with the freshest possible fungi.

The 2009 Domaine Heresztyn/Heresztyn-Mazzini Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes proved to be the wine of the night. Rating 94 points for me, this single vineyard premier cru demonstrated how bottle age develops beautiful savory characteristics in Burgundy. Served via Coravin, the wine showed lovely typical Burgundy nose with soft, resolved tannins. The earthy complexity perfectly complemented the glazed and barbecued shiitake served with watercress cream and potato-yeast ravioli.

The main course featured Wareham Japanese Sika Deer - animals raised on Graham's own estate. The presentation included deer ham, consommé with ginger, tartare, ribs, and a sauce incorporating bone marrow and pureed artichoke, alongside celeriac purée and preserved figs.

Our conversation about Bordeaux during wine service proved prescient when the 2010 Château Langoa Barton arrived. We had visited this very château the previous year, tasting their 2022 barrel samples during our Bordeaux week. This Left Bank St-Julien Troisième Cru Classé, poured from magnum via Coravin, showed beautiful primary black fruit character while developing secondary notes of green bell pepper and graphite. The wine paired excellently with the rich, savory deer preparation. I scored the wine 93 points.

THE CHEF BECOMES THE STORYTELLER

The first dessert, Meyer Lemon with Aynhoe Park honey, fennel, stem ginger, and long pepper, arrived without wine pairing. The composition featured lemon curd beneath lightly grilled meringue made from honey produced by The Ledbury's own bees. Limoncello mascarpone and various meringue preparations completed this refreshing intermezzo.

The final wine of the evening arrived: 2008 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Eiswein, earning 91 points in my notes despite being too sweet for my personal preference. This rare German ice wine from the Saar region represented something special - Eiswein doesn't come often in Germany and Austria. The wine's orange peel character, citrus, and honey notes would provide appropriate sweetness for our remaining dessert courses.

Our most memorable moment came when Brett Graham himself presented the second dessert: Kentish Cox Apple with Pompona vanilla, bergamot, lemon verbena, and brown butter. More than the dessert itself, Graham's extended conversation at our table revealed the passion behind The Ledbury's success.

When Dio asked about the restaurant's design philosophy, Graham's eyes lit up. He explained arriving at The Ledbury at just 26 years old with no input into the original design. Heavy curtains and oversized chairs created an atmosphere that didn't reflect his vision. While he gradually changed tableware and small details - his wife makes many of the plates - he couldn't alter the fundamental space until COVID forced closure.

The pandemic, initially seeming like potential disaster, became an opportunity for complete reinvention. Graham brought in designers he wouldn't normally have used, personally selected every paint color, and filled the space with his personal collection of fossils, stones, and historical artifacts. He showed us a fern fossil, 303 to 311 million years old, purchased for just £50-60 from someone who carefully chipped it from rock. His philosophy: rather buy something with such incredible history than another candle.

Every decorative element has a story. That plaster fragment came from an old French church. The numbered fossils create a natural history museum atmosphere. Even the bathroom features his fossil collection around the mirror. Graham's passion for collecting transforms The Ledbury into something far more personal than typical fine dining.

We savored both the Eiswein and apple dessert as Graham continued sharing stories about his collection and vision for the restaurant. After we finished, he returned to present our final course.

The final dessert featured caramelized white chocolate, served with playful banter about gluten contamination. This led to a more serious discussion about his approach to dietary restrictions. Graham's practical philosophy emerged as he explained his decision to no longer accommodate guests with severe allergies stems from pure safety concerns. When someone could die from contamination, there's no upside to taking that risk. Every ingredient supplier disclaims responsibility for cross-contamination, leaving restaurant owners liable. His straightforward approach: "If there's no upside in killing someone, why take the chance?"

Graham's down-to-earth personality shines through even during serious conversations about food safety.

Traditional petite fours followed, accompanied by coffee service.

Our server then kindly took our photo at the table before personally escorting us to our waiting Uber, where we grabbed a final picture together outside The Ledbury's entrance.

THE LEDBURY SETS THE BAR HIGH

Our 10th anniversary dinner at The Ledbury exceeded every expectation. The combination of exceptional cuisine, thoughtful wine pairings, and genuine hospitality created an evening we'll treasure forever. Brett Graham's personal attention and the entire team's commitment to excellence justify The Ledbury's three-Michelin-star status completely.

This represents just the first stop in our London three-star tour! Tomorrow we check out of our Marylebone flat, collect a rental car, and drive to our next destination: The Waterside Inn, followed by a stay at Cliveden House in the countryside. Thursday brings our final three-star experience at The Fat Duck in Bray.

The Ledbury sets a remarkably high standard for what follows. But if our anniversary celebration proves anything, it's that some experiences are worth crossing oceans to enjoy.

Stay tuned for those upcoming blog posts - this three-star journey through England is just beginning.