Sonoma: The Final Chapter of Our 2024 Cultivation Trip
This post is my fourth and final installment on our 2024 cultivation trip for the Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction. My wife Dio and I have been exploring wine country for nearly a week now, representing the High Museum in meetings with numerous wineries. Interested in catching up on what we've been up to so far? Check out my first post about our initial, self-guided time in Napa, my second post on the official start of the High Museum cultivation activities, and my third post about our second day of official vineyard visits.
As the rest of our winery visits over the next couple of days would take place in Sonoma, the day began by us checking out of our lodgings in Yountville and taking a scenic drive over the mountains. to the charming town of Healdsburg, where our group had found new hotels. The official plan for that day included official tastings at two wineries. However, even though we did visit two wineries, we somehow ended up having just one tasting! More on that later…
LIMERICK LANE: WHAT’S IN A NAME?
“Why is this winery called ‘Limerick Lane?’, I’d thought to myself. Well, the moment we turned down a charming, rustic road bearing that same title, I knew I’d found my answer.
Our destination: Limerick Lane Cellars. Once we entered their charming tasting room, we were immediately poured glasses of the 2021 Limerick Lane Rosé.
After no more than a few sips of this lovely wine (with its melon notes and slightly sour edge), I’d already decided to score it 90 points. We then met the owner, Karen Francis DeGolia, who invited us outside for a short walk. We continued to enjoy our wine just steps from the winery and its tasting room, in the middle of the second "historic vineyard" I'd visited on this trip. Having become somewhat versed in head-trained vines after seeing those old "gnarly" Napa vines at Palisades Canyon a few days earlier, they stood out to me here as well.
Immediately, we began began discussing the wine auction. Limerick Lane had been involved with our event in the past and was eager to re-join as a participating winery. This was music to our ears! We let them know that we wanted them back, and with business matters settled, it was time to get to know these folks better and sample some more exemplary wine from their gnarly vines!
We tasted their 2021 Limerick Lane Zinfandel Block 1910, a Zin-dominant blend. It was a very nice and rather elegant wine, and not overly jammy. I gave it 91 points.
Karen explained that Limerick Lane's current winemaker joined their team after a background of making Pinots. So the Zinfandels he produces are somewhat more refined than the jammy variants many consumers tend to associate with California Zins.
She then shared a bit of her remarkable journey with this winery. It seems that way back in the early ‘90s, she helped establish Limerick Lane Cellars alongside her fiancé Tom Collins. The two of them had even etched each of their initials into the building’s concrete floor in 1993 when the winery was being built. Their collaborative efforts in bringing these historic vineyards back to life created the foundation for what would become one of the Russian River Valley's most respected producers.
Tragically, Tom passed away unexpectedly, and since they weren't yet married, ownership in the business transferred to his brother. Karen left to pursue her career elsewhere, though her heart remained deeply connected to this special place. In 2002, she returned, hoping to reconnect with the winery - eventually living on the property and working in various roles, from harvests to tastings.
Those endeavors never felt quite right to her, and she wound up maintaining ties to this land she adored in an entirely different manner altogether: She purchased the neighboring Ricci vineyard. This move allowed her to remain part of the local wine community while building her primary career elsewhere.
In 2022, Jake Bilbro, the winery's then-owner, decided to permanently relocate to Idaho. Karen seized the opportunity, and suddenly, almost three decades after helping to build it, she unexpectedly became the owner of Limerick Lane Cellars. It’s now a 53-acre estate that stands as one of the Russian River Valley's most iconic properties.
Karen showed us the location where she and Tom had engraved their initials in the concrete floor right outside the winery (Spoiler Alert: their initials are still visible today). Here’s a photo of Dio standing alongside that very personal spot.
After this fascinating history lesson, it was time to head back inside to taste their third wine - the 2021 Limerick Lane Zinfandel Squatter's Hill. This easy-drinking Zin was very good, earning a solid 90 points from me.
I told Karen I'd like to share their wine with our group at dinner and asked if she could suggest a “signature” Zin. She recommended the 2021 Limerick Lane Estate Cuvée.
COULD THERE BE A MORE BEAUTIFUL GETAWAY SPOT?
After learning they’d once more be participating in the wine auction, Karen offered to donate a stay at their "Vineyard Farmhouse" as an auction lot. Both that nearby house and an “Estate Home” are available for stays. She asked if we had time to visit that home, and of course we enthusiastically agreed!
It only took a couple of minutes by car to get from the vineyard to the Estate Home, where we toured the grounds of this wonderful property. My pictures and videos don't quite capture its beauty, but Limerick Lane has posted some fantastic videos on their website that showcase both locations perfectly. Check out these videos.
The Guest house we saw:
Here’s a video of both the inside and outside of the farmhouse that can be bid on at our March 2025 auction! The promotional material describes it thusly: "Wake up to breathtaking vineyard views, savor your morning coffee with the soft rustle of the vines, and unwind by our one-of-a-kind wine bottle-shaped pool. Located just minutes from downtown Healdsburg, it's your gateway to the best of Sonoma County."
Want more information about this farmhouse? Check out their website.
Although we knew it would happen, we later officially learned that Limerick Lane will be taking part in the auction!
LITTORAI: A DONATION 30 YEARS IN THE MAKING
After a quick lunch back in Healdsburg at Pizzando, we drove to Littorai and met with Ted Lemon, its owner and a legendary winemaker. This was actually the third time Dio and I had spent time with Ted. We initially met him back in Atlanta at a High Museum winemaker dinner, which I described in my first wine country adventure post. That meeting led us to join his wine club and later visit this estate for a proper tasting. Today's visit marked our second time at the property.
However, this was the first time (in both this and our 2023 cultivation trip - which you can read about here) that we weren’t offered a tasting. Rather, we just hung out in Ted's office with he and his dogs, talking about the wine auction and his "potential" participation. Ted explained candidly that Littorai wasn’t really doing many events like ours anymore. But he clearly had a soft spot for us - and especially for Caryl, our former High Wine Auction co-chair who joined us for this visit. The fact that she drove all the way out to see him with us definitely made an impression.
Ted said that if he did decide to attend, one thing he was considering donating was an auction lot going back 30 years: wine from their library, including magnums from various vintages throughout their winemaking history. Wow!
Even though we didn't share any wine during the meeting, Ted graciously offered us some to share at our group dinner that night. When asked if we wanted reds or whites, I immediately said "White!" I've been a Littorai member since that first winemaker dinner in Atlanta and now have mostly Littorai pinots in my cellar. So, I wanted to drink their Chardonnay! It was a lovely visit and it was so very nice of Ted to share his creations with our group.
Note that after we returned home, we learned Ted confirmed they will be attending and donating an auction lot of nine of his magnums (plus several other wines in different formats!) And, better yet, Littorai will be participating in a Thursday winemaker dinner!
LAST SUPPER WITH THE CULTIVATION CREW
We then headed back to Healdsburg for our next big event: dinner at Arandas. This would be our last official group dinner of the trip.
With dinner, I opened the 2021 Limerick Lane Estate Cuvée I'd purchased at the tasting room earlier that day. As I mentioned, Karen had recommended it as their "signature wine.” It turned out to be heavy and a bit syrupy, with prominent dark red fruit notes. While it paired nicely with my steak and potatoes, this particular style isn't really my cup of tea, so to speak. I still gave it 91 points, however, as it was a well-made expression of Zin.
We also did our own personal tasting with the "tasting kit" that Gemstone gave us (you can learn how we received this kit in my post about day two of our cultivation trip). No detailed notes on these wines, but they were really good showings and everyone enjoyed them.
The two Littorai Chardonnays Ted gave us were - of course - fabulous. Littorai makes some of my favorite new world Chardonnay. I remember someone at the table wanting to skip trying this wine for some reason, maybe due to all the wine we'd already tasted that week. I told them, "You should really give this a try, it's some of the best California white wine that's being made today." Of course, then that person relented and loved it! We also enjoyed various other wines that other folks brought - too many to remember them all, but they rounded out an excellent dinner experience.
It was a very good meal and it was great to catch up with everyone again, including our friends Dain and Lauren Reeves. If you recall, they had joined us for the first part of our trip (mentioned in my initial post about this journey) and are ten-year veterans of the auction. They've been participating in the event longer than Dio and I have been collecting wine!
We took a group pic in the restaurant to commemorate the last time we’d all be together during this trip.
And then, just before we went our separate ways to our various hotels, we took a fun group photo.
THE KIND OF TEXT I LOVE TO RECEIVE!
Around this time, I received this text from winemaker and friend Adrian Manspeaker:
"Brad meet GW, GW meet Brad. I wanted to connect you guys since Brad and his wife Dio are in town. I gave both of you guys a little background on each other. GW makes killer Pinots and Brad and Dio love wine and happen to be involved in the High Museum Wine Auction in Atlanta. Brad is wrapping up a lunch at 2ish in Healdsburg and headed to Red Car around 3:30 so there might be time if your schedule allows for you guys to meet. Hopefully you guys can connect."
I texted G.W., told him I thought we could make it work and that I’d check with our final day tasting group for their availability.
BEHIND THE SCENES: THE FERRARI OF BOTTLING LINES
Earlier in our trip, during that dinner with Adrian at Cyrus Restaurant, he’d surprised me with an incredible invitation to join him at Raymond Burr Vineyards to witness their first use of a newly installed Italian bottling system. This was exactly the kind of behind-the-scenes experience that makes wine country so special. I immediately accepted.
I was super excited, especially since the closest I’d ever been to a bottling line was back in 2023 at Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno (you can check out that post HERE).
So, I woke up early August 15th and made the 15-minute drive from our Healdsburg hotel to Raymond Burr Vineyards. Their tasting room was closed that day, but I took pictures and a 360-degree video of the outside of the room and views of the vineyard. Stunning!
I texted Adrian to let him know I was there, and he told me to "walk around back." That's when I saw it! Basically a big enclosed bottling plant roughly the size of a tractor-trailer.
Adrian was super busy, so I hung back for several minutes and just watched what was happening. He and the bottling plant tech/rep were working to get everything working, troubleshot, calibrated and dialed-in. It was fascinating to witness the simple reality of a winery's first day with new equipment - complete with all the adjustments and fine-tuning that’s rarely seen by visitors.
Once the bottling line started to run a bit more smoothly, I asked Adrian if he could describe, on video, just what was going on and how this whole thing worked - along with whatever else he thought would be interesting to share. I’d never been this close to a bottling line so I couldn’t really be sure what sort of questions to ask. It was a totally new experience for me.
Funny enough, there were a couple of false starts with the filming, because as soon as we started, things would stop working or would need to be fine-tuned. Talk about getting an authentic "first day" experience!
Adrian walked me through the impressive new system, explaining how it transforms empty glass bottles into finished, labeled wine through a series of precise steps. The process begins with preparation - dust is removed from the bottles and nitrogen is added to create a protective environment. The bottles then move to filling stations before being perfectly leveled to ensure the exact 750ml volume.
He showed me the corking mechanism and then the labeling system, which requires carefully calibrated timing to ensure front and back labels are perfectly positioned. What struck me was both the complexity of the system and Adrian's obvious enthusiasm for this significant upgrade to their production capabilities.
The precision engineering was impressive to witness firsthand! After the video tour, I found out that the bottling plant's location that day was just its temporary home. They are digging out an area where they’ll eventually install it permanently.
Soon Don, the owner of the winery, wandered over. He turned out to be not just incredibly knowledgeable but also absolutely hilarious. He told me Adrian had apparently convinced him to buy this Italian bottling line, and Don had taken to calling it his “Ferrari.” Why? Well, this finely crafted Italian machine cost around $180K - roughly the same price as that particular exotic sports car that he would now not be able to buy!
TASTING A FINE WINE STRAIGHT FROM ITS SOURCE
Since their tasting room was closed, Adrian asked if I'd like to taste some wine right out of the tanks - including the wine they were currently bottling. I, of course, said yes! The first we tried was the 2022 Raymond Burr Cabernet Sauvignon Gustafson Vineyard. This was what they were actively bottling at that very moment. Adrian pulled a glass directly from the tank, allowing me to taste what was flowing through the red hose over to the bottles. It showed nice red fruit characteristics and was surprisingly approachable for such a young wine, though it did have somewhat noticeable tannins. I scored this very nice cab at 92 points.
He then moved to another tank to offer me a taste of their 2022 Raymond Burr Grenache Old Vine. As I sipped, he shared a fascinating story about this wine's creation. It turns out this wine represents a blend of what were originally intended to be two separate wines - a Joseph Jewell Grenache and a Raymond Burr Grenache. The Raymond Burr portion was made with whole cluster fermentation while the Joseph Jewell wasn't. According to Adrian, neither wine was quite hitting the mark on its own, but after some experimentation, they discovered they both tasted much better when blended together. The resulting wine had spent eight months in barrel and comes from vines in Mendocino County that are almost 70 years old. I was really impressed by the final result and scored it 93 points.
This video follows the hose line from the tanks back to the bottling plant, tracking the wine's journey from storage to bottle.
Instead of continuing to stand around watching everyone work, I asked if I could jump in and help. Don's girlfriend was on the station that takes the finished, bottled wine and puts it into the box. She was SO up for me to take over that she literally ran away once she gave me some quick training! I was there packing boxes of wine for about 20 minutes, wondering if she would ever return. Luckily, she did!
I asked if I could buy a bottle of the wine right off the line. Adrian said yes, so I just Venmo'd him for the purchase and grabbed myself a bottle - which means I purchased the first ever estate bottled wine from Raymond Burr!
Adrian also let me grab an unused cork, an unused capsule, and some unused stickers as souvenirs.
These are now all proudly displayed in my home. I won't ever open this particular bottle of wine because it's too special, but I'll definitely buy some more of this wine once it's on sale to the public - and will share it along with this story (to anyone who will listen)!
As I was about to depart, Adrian explained that the Joseph Jewell Vermentino we fell in love with at the Jewell Lunch in Atlanta (you can read about that event HERE) comes from this very vineyard! I hadn't put one and one together, but I googled it quickly - and there it is (Raymond Burr Vineyard), right on the label of the Vermentino!
As I drove away, I grabbed this pic of the vineyard of Vermentino next to the winery's sign.
MAISON IN HEALDSBURG: A “THANK YOU” LUNCH
Next was another "Thank You" lunch hosted by the High Museum to thank wineries for their past support of the auction. This one took place at Maison Healdsburg Wine Bar.
What’s a “Thank You” lunch, you might ask?
Well, think of it this way: The High Museum Atlanta Wine Auction is THE big fundraiser for the High Museum of Art, and it’s been taking place annually now for over 30 years. Collectively over that period of time, this event has generated OVER $1 million each year for the museum.
So, yeah, it’s huge.
And, at the risk of overstating the obvious, this is truly a symbiotic relationship. I mean, the whole point is to raise money for a worthy cause, but in the process it’s also to present the finest wines we can find to our guests at the auction, and give the them the opportunity to get to know these vineyards and wineries on a level that the average consumer or restaurant goer would likely never be able to.
Taking part in our annual auction event is a big “get” for the wineries and vineyards we invite, and it can often result in legit, long-term gains for those outfits.
But, from another perspective, we can’t do ANY of this without the enthusiastic participation of those companies. Without the wine and the desirable auction lots, there’s no event, right?
It’s very important to those of us involved with the auction that we make sure these producers know just how special and valuable they are to our ongoing efforts, and how much we truly appreciate their collaboration. So, from time to time, we host these “Thank You” meals, and do our best to spread some sincere love and respect around the room for everything these folks do to better the world of wine — and to better the High Museum.
It was good to catch up with Sam Lando of Lando Wines, whose Russian River Valley Pinots and Chardonnays have become some of our favorites since discovering them a few years ago. Plus, we got to know Steve Friend and his wife, owners of Collectible Fine Wine and Maison, who are also long-time supporters of the High Museum Wine Auction.
The wine selection Steve put together at Maison was particularly impressive. I started with a pour of 2017 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru - Morgeot that immediately caught my attention. When it comes to white Burgundy, I can be pretty picky, but this one delivered on all fronts - I ended up scoring this lovely wine 94 points.
Next came the 2022 Lando Halo Proprietary Blend Russian River Valley Chardonnay that Sam brought, which offered a nice contrast to the Burgundy. Sam's wines never disappoint, and this domestic Chardonnay was no exception, earning 91 points from me.
We also sampled offerings from Three Sticks and Brick & Mortar that rounded out the tasting nicely. The entire lineup of wines on display at this celebratory meal was indicative of the exemplary nature of the producers that have reliably made our annual auction one of the most prestigious wine events in the entire USA.
Sam told his winery’s story to the group and mentioned that he was very proud his son Henry is now helping out with harvest and getting into the family business! What a great guy and an amazing storyteller.
ALL ABOARD THE RED CAR: FROM SYRAH TO ROSE
While at Maison, we met up with our tasting group for the rest of the afternoon and confirmed our plans to visit Lussier Wine Co. after an appointment at Red Car Wine. We'd need to make the Lussier visit quick though, as several members of our group had flights and travel arrangements scheduled for later that day. It was, after all, our final day of the trip. With plans set, we drove to Red Car.
Upon entering the tasting room, we were struck by its stylish yet rustic ambiance.
Our host started us off with a pour of 2023 Red Car Rosé of Pinot Noir. He explained that it spends some time in neutral oak, which contributes to its light, refreshing quality. The result was a beautiful balance and a creamy texture. I immediately appreciated how accessible it was - scoring it 92 points.
As we settled in, an attractively arranged charcuterie board appeared at our table - perfect for pairing with the wines to come.
During our tasting, our host shared Red Car Wine's fascinating origin story. The founders were enthusiasts who decided to start a winery focusing initially on Syrah. Their first vintage in 2000 totaled just 50 cases from purchased fruit, but it sold out quickly. They continued with that model through 2005, maintaining Syrah as their signature grape.
The turning point came when they acquired an estate property and planted Syrah in 2006, while also beginning to work with Pinot Noir. After receiving significant recognition from Wine Spectator, they strategically shifted their focus toward Pinot, though they still maintain about 15% Syrah production as a nod to their roots. Their rosé program started in 2011.
The 2021 Red Car Chardonnay Estate Vineyard came next. While beautifully made, I found it fruitier and more acidic than I typically prefer, giving it 89 points.
Our host explained they now maintain two estate vineyards while leasing several other sites, working with a dedicated vineyard management team and insisting all their grapes be hand-selected.
The 2021 Red Car Pinot Noir Estate showed interesting cherry and pomegranate notes with surprisingly firm tannins for a Pinot. Its complexity earned it 92 points from me.
I was curious about the winery's distinctive name, so our host showed us a book titled "Ride the BIG RED CARS" about the historic Los Angeles trolley system that at one time took city residents all the way from downtown to the beach - a perfect metaphor for their wines' journey.
Next, we tasted the 2021 Red Car Pinot Noir Heaven & Earth, which our host indicated had particular significance as the wine that convinced them to pivot toward Pinot Noir. Its expressive cherry nose, bright ruby color, and 13% alcohol made it super approachable - another 92-pointer!
We finished up with their 2019 Red Car Syrah Estate, derived from vines planted in 2006. Growing in ancient marine uplift soils, this wine displayed fascinating blue fruit characteristics with notes reminiscent of magic marker and Dr. Pepper! Its medium tannins and spice gave it a substantial presence with a dry finish. I initially scored it 90 points, but when paired with the charcuterie, it elevated to 92 - settling on 91 overall.
We then discussed the wine auction and their potential participation.
LIGHTNING ROUND WITH LUSSIER: THE FASTEST TASTING IN THE WEST?
Next, we drove to see G.W. of Lussier Wine Co. for a "quick tasting." I’m here to tell you, this might be the quickest tasting I've ever done!
We arrived and met G.W. Lussier, a military vet who makes wine for Moshin Vineyards where our tasting was taking place. He also makes his own wine at this same facility. G.W. poured through his lineup with impressive efficiency - we were literally tasting at lightning speed.
He started with something quite different, pouring the 2023 Lussier Old Vines Chenin Blanc Green Valley from Solano County. This was actually the third Chenin Blanc I'd tasted during our trip - compared to Chardonnay, it’s an uncommon variety to find in California . As he poured, he mentioned it was made from organically farmed fruit. The wine delivered lovely lemon tart notes that immediately grabbed my attention. I was impressed enough to give it 93 points and made a mental note to grab some for my cellar.
No sooner had I finished jotting down my thoughts when the next wine appeared - the 2022 Lussier Pinot Noir Signal Ridge Vineyard from Mendocino Ridge. As I swirled and sniffed, G.W. noted he used about 25% whole cluster fermentation on this one. It was showing beautifully, even as a pop-and-pour, with spicy notes and a complex profile that carried good weight. This earned a solid 92 points from me.
"And now for something special," G.W. said with a slight smile as he poured the 2022 Lussier Pinot Noir Golden Fleece from Anderson Valley. One sip and I knew this was the standout of the flight. Despite noticeable tannins, it had a lovely balance and depth that clearly distinguished it from the others. This was easily worth 94 points and definitely something I wanted in my cellar back home.
As we tasted, we told G.W. about the High Museum Wine Auction, and while he was familiar with wine auction events in general, he hadn't participated in this one before. His eyes lit up as he shared details about his family's property - not just a vineyard, but a working farm with farm-to-table vegetables and an ample area for bird hunting. We brainstormed how these unique elements could create a compelling auction lot combining wine, food, and sporting experiences. By the time we finished our tasting, the High Museum representatives had exchanged contact information with G.W. to continue exploring participation possibilities.
We then received a quick tour of the Moshin winery facility where G.W. makes his wines. I snapped a few photos of the barrels and of G.W. explaining his approach to the art of winemaking.
I think our entire visit was maybe 20 minutes long, if that…
BACK HOME SAFELY, A VERY SUCCESSFUL TRIP
Since we had no time to purchase wines at Lussier, and because I was really impressed with their wines - especially given the price point - Once I returned to Atlanta I ordered a case: six bottles of Chenin Blanc and six bottles of Pinot Noir.
Also, when G.W. initially reached out about participating in the auction, there were not enough slots available. But, in an unexpected turn of events, another winery cancelled their participation a few months before the auction, and that opening allowed Lussier to participate. Guess what? He wound up creating that amazing auction lot we’d brainstormed!
Since then, I've helped Adrian of Joseph Jewell and G.W. of Lussier arrange a joint, private tasting in Atlanta of wines from both their facilities during the Wine Auction week.
REFLECTING ON AN EXTRAORDINARY WEEK IN NAPA
Looking back on this incredible journey through wine country, a few experiences stand out above the rest. The visit to Palisades Canyon was easily my favorite winery experience, tasting some of the most extraordinary wines from 60-year-old vines. The unforgettable meal at Cyrus was a gastronomic masterpiece that I'm still thinking about. And the most unique experience had to be helping with the bottling line at Raymond Burr - a true behind-the-scenes look at winemaking that most visitors never get to see.
Other standout moments included meeting legendary winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, experiencing two amazing established producers on Pritchard Hill (Chappellet and Continuum), and being one of the first to taste wines from one of my favorite winemakers, Nigel Kinsman, at his Annulus project.
For my complete tasting notes on all the wines mentioned in this post, check out my CellarTracker notes:
EXPERIENCE THESE VERY WINERIES AT THE NEXT HIGH MUSEUM AUCTION!
If you're interested in experiencing the magic of these incredible wineries yourself without leaving Atlanta, mark your calendars for the High Museum Wine Auction happening March 20-22, 2025, in Atlanta, GA. I highly recommend purchasing a benefactor package to attend one of the winemaker dinners featuring many of the amazing wineries I've written about in these posts.
Check out the wineries participating in the winemaker dinners:
