Mountain Majesty & Vineyard Mastery: Paul Hobbs Takes High Hampton
High Hampton Resort is a unique destination nestled deep in the misty mountains of North Carolina, in the village of Cashiers. The centerpiece of the beautiful property is an over 100-year-old inn at the edge of a peaceful lake. Recently restored to its original, period-correct splendor, the building is listed on the prestigious National Registry of Historic Places.
Our recent weekend getaway to High Hampton in September of 2024 offered an exquisite journey through the celebrated Paul Hobbs portfolio. Featuring vibrant Russian River Chardonnays to powerful Napa Cabernets and nearly everything in between, this meticulously curated wine experience provided delightful discoveries that truly showcased why Hobbs is widely considered among America's winemaking elite.
OUR RETURN TO THE HIGHLANDS
When my wife Dio and I first visited High Hampton in June of the same year for a weekend of wine, food, and friendship, we were immediately captivated by the property's jaw-dropping beauty and relaxed luxury. So when some friends from Austin mentioned they were organizing a Paul Hobbs wine event in September at the resort, we didn't hesitate to join in. The chance to experience wines from Paul Hobbs – a producer I'd heard much about but somehow never personally tasted – was just too enticing to pass up!
Once the event was confirmed for Sept 13-14, our anticipation built. The schedule promised a welcome reception at Doc's Bar on Friday, followed by a bubbly reception and wine pairing dinner in the resort’s wine cellar on Saturday evening. We promptly booked the same beautiful room at the inn that had provided us with breathtaking views during our first stay, eager to recapture that magic.
Arriving a few hours before Friday's welcome reception, I took a moment to record a quick video from our deck overlooking the spectacular mountain vista, expressing my excitement about experiencing Paul Hobbs wines for the first time at this memorably beautiful property.
FRIDAY NIGHT: FINDS, FRIENDS AND FUTURE PLANS
Friday evening’s welcome reception proved the perfect introduction to Paul Hobbs’ portfolio. We were greeted by some of our Atlanta friends who’d driven up to join in the fun, along with our friends from Austin who maintain a residence at High Hampton. I also had the pleasure at that time of meeting Paul Hobbs Winery Ambassador Tyson Ducker and their Hospitality Manager Emery Bodell, who would subsequently guide us all through our tastings.
The setup was beautiful – an impressive display of wines placed alongside artfully arranged charcuterie and cheese boards. Just get a look at these images for a peek at the visually stunning spread!
I began the tasting with the 2021 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Russian River Valley, which earned 92 points from me for its tangy acidity and light character. Sourced from various vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley, it made for quite a nice start to the evening.
Next came the 2022 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir West Sonoma Coast, which I scored 93 points for its rich, heavy profile and medium tannins. This blend from coastal vineyards showed more complexity than the single-vineyard pinot that followed, and ultimately became my favorite pinot of the entire weekend – so much so that I wound up purchasing an entire case. In my view, it offers exceptional quality for the price.
The 2021 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir George Menini Estate, which I scored at 92 points, represented the inaugural vintage from this vineyard near Sebastopol. It was explained to us all that Paul Hobbs has a particular affection for this site, which was originally used as an apple orchard before transitioning to vines in 2015/2016. Though enjoyable with its tobacco, mushroom and earthy notes, I found this wine fairly tannic for a young pinot. Unfortunately, it wasn't available for purchase…
Finally, we sampled the 2021 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville, which I rated 92 points. It was a young, tannic expression with dark fruit and blackberry notes on the nose. I initially gave it 91 points on its own, but when paired with the charcuterie it improved to 93 points. This only highlighted the importance of proper food pairing on young, tannic wines.
During this reception, our Austin friends surprised us with an invitation to join them at their table for the Austin Rare & Fine Wine Auction Gala in November. After checking our calendars and finding we were indeed available at that time, we enthusiastically accepted, excited to share more wines and observe another respected wine auction beyond our familiar Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction.
SATURDAY SUNSHINE AND SHARED BOTTLES
Saturday offered Dio and I a bit of time to relax and enjoy the property before the evening's main event. We lunched with our friends on the terrace outside the pro shop – coincidentally the same area where we'd previously attended Drew Bledsoe’s wine tasting during our first visit to the resort.
I'd brought along some special bottles to share with our friends: a 2022 Talley Vineyards Grenache from Arroyo Grande Valley, earning 91 points from me, which —after 30 minutes of opening— showed a very light color with no tannin and fruity character, as well as a 2009 Viña Vik Champagne La Piu Belle, which I scored 92 points. That was a complex, heavy champagne that took several minutes to open up, ultimately revealing nutty and apricot notes.
A SPARKLING START TO AN UNFORGETTABLE MEAL
Saturday evening began with a sparkling wine reception held just outside the inn’s wine cellar. While mingling with our friends and other attendees, we enjoyed the 2020 Paul Hobbs Blanc de Noirs from Russian River Valley, which I rated 93 points for its light, refreshing character and lemon peel notes. This noteworthy sparkler outshone the Vik Champagne I'd brought earlier in the day, and I made sure to add some to my cellar.
THE FATHER OF MODERN MALBEC
After the reception, we moved into the wine cellar, where a long and rather magnificent table had been set for our dinner. The room exuded rustic elegance, with wooden walls lined with bottles, soft lighting from pendant fixtures, and beautiful table settings. These photos offer a peek at an otherwise private moment.
Leanne, High Hampton's groups and events manager, welcomed everyone warmly, emphasizing the special, shared connections that make the High Hampton property and experience unique – "friendships and delicious food and amazing wine around a table."
Then Tyson from Paul Hobbs shared the remarkable story of Paul Hobbs: his roots as the second of eleven children in a farming family, his chemistry studies at Notre Dame, his pioneering work at Robert Mondavi's Opus One, and his revolutionary impact in Argentina as "the father of modern Malbec." He went on to describe how Hobbs eventually launched his own label in 1991, building an impressive portfolio of single-vineyard wines that has since expanded to include properties across California, Argentina and beyond.
If you'd like to hear the full fascinating history of Paul Hobbs – including how he transitioned from an aspiring astronaut to a legitimate legend of winemaking – check out Tyson's complete presentation:
FROM ORCHARD TO VINEYARD
Our culinary journey began with a vibrant Garden Green Salad featuring shaved vegetables, a smoked onion jam vinaigrette, and toasted sunflower seeds, paired with the 2022 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay George Menini Estate from Russian River Valley. This wine earned 93 points from me for its good acidity, citrus and honeysuckle notes, and fresh, bright character with mineral undertones.
Tyson explained that Paul purchased this site, formerly a Gravenstein apple orchard, in 2013. The cooler location, just about half an hour from the ocean, creates a distinctive expression. The vineyard's namesake, George Menini, had farmed Gravenstein apples on this land for 60 years before passing away at age 90, literally dying right among his beloved trees. Paul subsequently planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the site, and this 2022 vintage represented only the second release of this wine.
Its bracing crispness and mineral notes perfectly reflected the cooler climate of the George Menini estate. This wound up as my favorite white of the weekend and so impressed me that I opted to purchase a full case for my cellar.
14 ACRES DIVIDED BY THREE SOIL TYPES = AMAZING GRAPES
Our second course featured Bell & Evans Chicken with tempura okra flower, kale purée, farro verde, and grilled okra, all of which was paired with the 2017 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Katherine Lindsay Estate Vineyard from Russian River Valley.
Tyson shared the significance of the Katherine Lindsay Estate – Paul's home vineyard named after his beloved great-grandmother, whose apple farm had inspired his own farming adventures. Located in Sebastopol quite close to the sea, the estate experiences dramatic daily temperature shifts of 50-60 degrees as cold fog is pulled inland each night. This vineyard sits "on the very back end where the most profound part of the fog happens," creating near-perfect conditions for growing exceptional Pinot Noir.
What makes this 14-acre site particularly fascinating (at least to me!) is its three distinct soil types: one area boasts fragments of ancient shells, another sandy "goldridge" soil that imparts fruit-forward characteristics, and finally a unique, red, iron-rich soil that contributes earthiness to the wine. It seems the 2017 vintage was notably fruit-driven due to the heat of that year’s growing season.
Unfortunately, the particular bottle we were provided, which was sourced from High Hampton's cellar (as Paul Hobbs wines typically sell out upon release), showed signs of being compromised. Despite a wonderful earthy mushroom nose, the finish showed excessive alcohol and muted fruit. This was inconsistent with what others at the far end of the table were experiencing with their pours. Bottle variation happens even with the finest wines, and this singular experience did nothing to diminish our enthusiasm for the overall event.
THE TRUE, ENDURING GENIUS OF ANDY BECKSTOFFER
The third course brought Braised Short Rib with acquerello rice, toasted walnuts, and chanterelle mushrooms, paired with 2020 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard from St. Helena. According to our host, the fruit was picked before the second fire of 2020, thus avoiding any taint from the smoke. This assertion was then confirmed by my own tasting experience. The wine showed medium-high tannin and high acidity, with a nose that seemed slightly off to me and noticeable alcohol on the finish. I rated it 90 points on its own, improving to 91 points with food. Having tried several Dr. Crane Cabernets from different winemakers across various vintages, I found this my least favorite – likely reflecting the challenging 2020 vintage rather than the winemaker's skill.
Tyson provided fascinating context about the Beckstoffer vineyards, explaining how Andy Beckstoffer revolutionized Napa Valley viticulture after arriving in 1970. Originally a finance expert sent to advise Beaulieu Vineyard, Beckstoffer realized the real value lay in land ownership. By the late 1980s, he had developed the concept of "pedigree sites" – the purchasing of small, exceptional vineyard plots along Napa's most coveted corridor and farming them to exacting standards.
Beckstoffer's genius was evident in his strict (and innovative) policy of requiring wineries to put his name on their labels. This practice insured that if multiple producers earned high scores from the same vineyard, the vineyard itself would gain the following rather than any individual winemaker. Paul Hobbs secured the first contracts at the first three Beckstoffer sites and earned the first 100-point score for a Beckstoffer wine.
The Dr. Crane vineyard is named for a historic figure from the 1860s who is today considered the father of Napa viticulture. The Beckstoffer portion that Hobbs sources from is particularly prized because it sits on well-drained gravel rather than deeper alluvial deposits, creating what Tyson described as "this kind of round, supple, rich, chocolatey cherry thing that happens with Crane."
THE CROWN JEWEL OF COOMBSVILLE
Our main course featured Simpson's Farm Tenderloin with pomme purée, wild mushrooms, and green peppercorn jus, paired with 2019 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Nathan Coombs Estate from Coombsville, which earned 93 points from me for its higher acidity and dark blueberry fruit notes.
Tyson explained the geographical significance of Coombsville's location within Napa Valley. Positioned near San Pablo Bay at the cooler southern end of Napa, with a volcanic caldera creating a natural barrier to the fog, Coombsville produces Cabernets with more pronounced characteristics of black fruit and savory spice. The longer, later ripening season creates deeper flavors and a higher acidity, giving the wines excellent aging potential.
Paul Hobbs was drawn to Coombsville after working with its fruit for Opus One blends, and he saw its potential long before it became fashionable. He then named the vineyard after the historical figure who founded the town of Napa. Just two weeks before our dinner, Paul received the first-ever 100-point score for a Coombsville wine from this very vineyard – a remarkable validation of his foresight in choosing this area.
After 30 minutes in the glass, this wine continued improving, creating a magnificent pairing with the tenderloin (that is, once I scraped off the excessive pepper that initially overwhelmed the wine).
A DOUBLE-DOSE OF HISTORIC SOUTHERN SWEETS
Our culinary finale featured Southern Coconut Cake with buttermilk frosting, paired with NV Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Baltimore Rainwater, which I gave 90 points.. Though not a Paul Hobbs wine, this selection provided a perfect conclusion to our meal.
The High Hampton Sommelier shared the fascinating history of this style, which was once America's most popular wine – Thomas Jefferson himself reportedly ordered 5,000 cases for his inauguration. This particular rainwater Madeira comes from the island off Madagascar that receives an astonishing 110 inches of annual precipitation! Compare that to Spring Mountain's 50 annual inches, which makes it the wettest AVA in all of California.
The wine's name remains "shrouded in mystery," possibly referring to barrels forgotten on the beachside and eventually soaked with rain. Despite once being America's favorite wine, Madeira fell from prominence due to a "confluence of unfortunate events" including the devastating effects of phylloxera (a grapevine damaging insect native to North America), World War I, the Great Depression and the advent of refrigeration.
With its slightly medicinal nose, butterscotch notes, and medium-thick texture, this Madeira paired beautifully with the coconut cake, which many guests declared the culinary highlight of the evening — including myself!
INSIDER INSIGHTS AND MORE LOVE FOR THAT COCONUT CAKE
After this exceedingly memorable meal, our friends shared their enthusiastic endorsement of visiting Paul Hobbs Winery in person: "The food and wine tasting at Paul Hobbs is bar none to any three Michelin star restaurant in California," our friend told the group. "I can't even tell you how much detail they pay attention to — from the way you walk in, to the sparkling wine that they serve, to whatever amuse-bouche they give you – everything is impeccably paired."
They recounted their first visit to Paul Hobbs, when they arrived an hour late after underestimating the time needed to cross the mountain. Despite strict timing policies, they managed to gain entry and thus began their love affair with this winery. Our friend described a particularly magical experience at a Harvest Moon dinner where the chef had soaked beef for 48 hours in "a very expensive bottle of wine" while music played and LED lights illuminated the grass "like the stars were in the ground."
Tyson joked that they had "officially forgiven" our friends for being late to their first visit all those years ago, a moment of levity that highlighted the personable nature of the Paul Hobbs team.
Chef Daniel and his team joined us at the conclusion of our meal to well-deserved applause. The chef shared an amusing anecdote about his mother who resides in Florida, and who now expects him to bring this coconut cake whenever he visits: "The first conversation we have is not like, 'Hey, Daniel, how are you doing?' It's, 'Hey, you have any coconut cake?' I'm like, 'Yeah, I'll bring you some, how are you?'"
A BLUE RIDGE BONANZA OF OPPORTUNITIES
Our Paul Hobbs weekend in Cashiers yielded treasures far beyond the bottles that now line my cellar – new friendships were formed, including an invitation to stay with people we met there when we next visit Sonoma (that’s already planned for October 2025), and very exciting plans were cemented to join our Austin friends at their highly anticipated wine auction.
After our wonderful dinner, we all headed back to our friends' house for more wine and fellowship, offering a perfect, relaxed conclusion to what had been an exceptional day of wine exploration.
Gazing at the mountain backdrop one final time as we departed High Hampton, I reflected on how wine continues to create meaningful, lasting connections for Dio and I that extend far beyond what's in our glasses. The Paul Hobbs weekend had introduced us to new wines, new friends and new adventures in our collective future – the perfect trifecta for any wine enthusiast.
